Up-Country Weekend

New friends up-country


Sophia awaits lunch preparation by Mrs. Jallo

Late last night we returned from spending two days away. Just 2.5 hours away by car, half the route was paved and the other half was a bumpy and dusty and being-built road (which really isn’t that bad: the driver needs to pay careful attention to the potholes and construction detours and the conversation is either curtailed because of all the energy it takes to talk over the noise of the rocky road, or we simply need to talk louder!). In some ways it felt like another world, in others, we jumped right in to the routine and felt at home.

We knew we were heading to rustic conditions, similar to camping, and we were fortunate to have a roof over our heads, mattresses to lay on, and places to hang the mosquito nets. We decided to forego taking city food and eat whatever the locals ate. We did, however, take plates and cups, as the local custom is for everyone to eat from one big bowl or drink from one cup. We had a busy program with the kids. We were taking workbooks for a literacy and moral education program to a group of middle-school aged girls from the village. They were the children of friends of friends; so, when we arrived, they were waiting for us and eager to begin the class.

The family at the center we visited prepared wonderful meals for us both days. This was a big splurge for them, as the meal, a typical Gambian favorite dish, called “benechin” included fish, vegetables and rice, cooked slowly together over a fire. The family’s meal might have been plain rice and salt on a typical day. This was like a feast for them. We have eaten benechin (and domoda the second day, which is a peanut-sauce stew, another Gambian specialty) many times since our arrival and like it. My girls, however, aren’t used to seeing little whole fish in the pot -- eyes, bones and all (benechin can be made with any kind of fish or other meat). While Layla said she was “scared” of this fish and it was “the boniest fish I’ve ever seen in my life;” her cousin Amelia, who has grown up here, said “I couldn’t get enough; I even chomped on the bones.”

Even for our almost-Gambian cousin, this was a very different environment. But, overall, each of the girls really adapted to the environment. The first day was marked by probably the hottest weather we’ve ever encountered in our lives, where about five minutes outside in the mid-day sun and dry air was about anyone could take. So, we simply spent more time in the ample shade of the cashew trees, or indoors, which, even without a/c, was significantly cooler than outside. There was no ice or cold drinks, as there was no refrigerator on site (or any other electric powered appliances). On the second day our host got everyone baobab ices (the popsicles in the plastic baggies) which were doubly appreciated, and we drank lots of room-temperature bottled water. For showers, we had our choice of a bucket bath or using the disposable hospital wipes my sister-in-law packed for us “just in case.”

The girls chose the latter option, since termites had chewed through the door of the room in which they would bathe, and “no way” were they going to get undressed having another girl stand guard at the door. The latrines in a separate enclosure also took getting used to. As Amelia said, “we got lots of exercise; going to the bathroom was great for developing our leg muscles.”

Despite these minor adjustments, the girls really had a good, memorable time. Our hosts had obviously gone to great lengths to ensure our comfort, including outfitting one of the latrines with a toilet-like fitting, covering the windows of the cabin with new curtains, getting the solar-panels to pump water to the sink and to turn on a light bulb in the cabin where we were to sleep, and of course, making special food for us.

Before we arrived, the girls dreaded “being bored” in the village and wanted to stay at home as there were some parties of classmates this weekend. I was relieved to realize that once we set out for the trip, and especially, after meeting the other kids their age, my girls no longer used the B-word (boring) and took things with a good sense of humor. So soon after arriving they made friends with the local girls and also felt useful with the class. They realized that the girls their age had a reading level closer to a second-grade level. Just a couple hours into their program with them, they began to see results: the local girls began picking up the pace of their reading and were able to answer more questions and engage in more discussion. By the end of the weekend, they were developing skits together and teaching each other songs. Friendships were developed which made it difficult to leave – we didn’t take off until over two hours later than we had planned.

Another very positive experience was meeting three Peace Corps volunteers posted in the vicinity. They set a great example of embracing life in the relatively primitive environment. More to come about them and a few other aspects of the weekend in the next post